Dial or Electronic Lock?

By Gun-Safe-Guru, onJune 27th, 2011

One of the most common questions we hear at the GunSafes.com office is “Should I get a manual dial or an electronic lock?”

The choice of lock is largely personal, and both options have their pros and cons.

The old-fashioned manual tumbler lock is typically less expensive than an electric lock. A dial will never wear out or need to be replaced, and it will not automatically lock you out from repeated failed efforts to access. We have also had people who prefer this option because it is virtually silent, a big plus if you find yourself in a dangerous situation where you need to access a firearm quickly and quietly.

Dial locks, however, are difficult to read in low light situations, and take a little more time to access than electronic locks. You not only have to remember the numbers of the combination, but also the pattern and direction to turn the dial. If you miss the mark, you have to start over. Dial locks also require you to spin the dial after closing the safe in order to ensure it locks. If you ever want to change your combination, you will have to contact the manufacturer or a locksmith.

Electronic locks are quick; just punch in the numbers and you’re in. You don’t have to do anything extra to lock the safe, just close it. They are much easier to access in dimly lit areas, even if they aren’t illuminated, because of the simple grid layout of the numbers on the keypad. Electronic locks are easier to change the combinations on, as they don’t require any special tools. Many electronic locks have an automatic lock out feature, so if someone tries three or four incorrect combinations, they will be locked out for 15 to 20 minutes. This can be a desirable or undesirable feature depending on your point of view.

However, electronic locks make noise (some of these have an option to turn off the “beep”). You also need to change your combination occasionally on an electronic lock, as the keypad will eventually show wear marks that reveal the numbers in your combination. Though a thief would still need to figure out the right order, this does make his job a little easier. E-locks can suffer electronic failure, though this is very rare. In case of an electromagnetic surge, such as a severe solar flare or nuclear explosion, an e-lock would not be able to function. They do require a battery change at least once a year, though this is external and quick to do.

As far as security, both locks are equally good. Neither is easy to bypass, and both are going to be inoperable after a major fire.

Ultimately, the buyer needs to weigh speed, convenience, and ease of access, and decide which option is right.

Gun Safe Buyers Guide, Part 4 : WHAT IS A DEHUMIDIFIER?

By Gun-Safe-Guru, onOctober 22nd, 2010

If you’ve been roaming the net for information about gun safes, your research has likely pointed you towards a lot of sites mentioning dehumidifiers. It might sound out of place when you’re talking about a gun safe, but in fact it’s very important.  In this section of the gun safe buyers guide, we’ll talk about dehumidifiers;  what they are and how to pick one out.

Gun Safe Dehumidifier

What does a dehumidifier do?

A: The purpose of a dehumidifier is to eliminate condensation from forming inside the gun safe.  Condensation can cause metal to rust and can leave your safe with a nasty smell.  Depending on where your safe is located and what your climate is like, condensation can form inside a safe due to the change in temperature or in areas of high humidity.

What are the different types of dehumidifiers?

A:  There are two main types of dehumidifiers for gun safes.  An electric and a desiccant.  The desiccant dehumidifier works great in safes that are not near an electrical outlet.  Desiccant is a hygroscopic substance that has the ability to attract water molecules from the surrounding environment through absorption.  The desiccant needs to be recharged after it’s absorbed all that it can.  This is usually a period of 2-6 months, depending on the brand and how much it’s being used.  The desiccant can be recharged in your oven so it can be used over and over.

The electric dehumidifier is the more popular of the two.  This dehumidifier, also known as a “Golden Rod”,  heats to a surface temperature of about 140 degrees.  Its purpose is to maintain a constant temperature throughout your safe. Maintaining a warm temperature in the safe lessens the chance that water vapor will condense and promote rust.  It usually comes in the form of an 18″ rod that can be mounted to the floor or wall of your safe.  Installation is easy: The cord is removable so you can wire it through your safe and plug it in.  To take up even less space, there is a flexible dehumidifier as well.  This one can be bent to contour the corner of your safe.

Do I need a dehumidifier?

A:  This is a tricky question.  If the safe is going to be located in a climate controlled area like your home, it may not need a dehumidifier.  If the door is opened often enough, this will also help prevent condensation.  However, in some areas of high humidity, even a safe that is placed inside a home can collect condensation.  It might be best to call a GunSafes.com rep to speak about your particular situation.

If the safe is going to be placed in your garage, basement, or any area that does not have a controlled climate, I would recommend a dehumidifier.  The temperature change in these areas can cause condensation in the safe which will result in rust forming on your precious guns!

Which dehumidifier is right for me?

A:  First you’ll need to choose between electric and desiccant.  If you have the electrical outlet available, I would go that route.  Make sure the safe you are buying or the safe you own has a hole in the back to pass the cord through.  If not, you’ll want the desiccant.  Some people even feel the need to combine the strength of the electric with the dependability of the cordless desiccant.  That way if they are away on a trip and the power goes out, they know that their precious items will be protected.  Some people even double up and get two dehumidifiers if they live in an area of extremely high humidity.  It’s all about your individual situation.

For advice on your particular situation, leave a comment here or speak to a GunSafes.com rep at 800-540-1695 ext 401

Gun Safe Buyers Guide, Part 3 : DELIVERY & INSTALLATION

By Gun-Safe-Guru, onAugust 31st, 2010

In this section of the gun safe buyers guide, I’ll focus on the delivery and installation for gun safes.

Q: How are gun safes typically shipped?

A:  Due to their weight, gun safes are shipped via a truck freight carrier.  This is typically a semi-truck (18 wheeler), but it can sometimes come on a smaller box truck (UPS type truck).  The safes are packaged with corner protectors and cardboard and they are bolted down to a wood pallet so the driver can easily move the safe with a pallet jack.  Most curbside deliveries that are over 150 lbs come with a liftgate.  A liftgate is a mechanical lift on the back of the truck that lowers the safe down to the ground level.  If a safe is shipped “curbside”, that means it is left at the curb.  On occasion, if the truck is able to do so, they will lower the safe on the driveway a little closer to the home.  This depends a lot on the driver, the truck, and the slope of the driveway.  Sometimes a large semi-truck just cannot back down a particular driveway.  In that case it will be left at the curb.

Q: How do you move a gun safe into your home?

 A:  There are several methods and I think I’ve heard just about all of them.  I’ll start with the easiest:  Hiring a company to move it in for you.  This service is called “White Glove” and there are usually several levels of service available.  The first level (Bronze) is where the delivery company will wheel the safe into your garage for you.  They drop it off inside your garage which is ideal if that’s where you plan to keep it.  Keep in mind, the pallet will still be attached to the bottom of the safe.  The next level of service (Gold) involves the company bringing the safe inside your home into a room of your choice.  They will also remove the pallet that is bolted to the bottom of the safe.  If the safe is under 900 lbs they can also move the safe up or down two flights of stairs.  Once the gun safe is in place, the movers will take away all the packing debris and leave the it ready to use.  If the delivery is out-of-the-ordinary or requires a lot of assembly time, a Platinum white glove service is also available. 

The next method of delivery is for the “Do-It-Yourself-er”.  By arranging some helpers or friends to move it from the curb into your home, you’ll avoid paying any additional delivery fees.  I’ve heard all kinds of stories about rolling a safe on ping-pong balls or other various methods, but the most popular is to use a pallet jack or furniture dolly.  The pallet jack is a great tool because the safe is already attached to a pallet so the jack easily rolls right under.  The hydraulic lift on the pallet jack can make the move from the curb to your threshold very easy.  Once it’s at your front door (the threshold), you’ll probably want a crew of 3-4 people there to help lift it inside.  A furniture dolly would be helpful here as well. 

A new product that I’m really impressed with is the Shoulder Dolly.  This simple piece of equipment makes it easier and safer to lift heavy objects.  It doesn’t give you “superpowers”, but it can make large and awkward items easier to handle so you can use all your strength without losing your grip.  Keep in mind the weight limit is 800 lbs and you’ll need two capable lifters to move a heavy safe.  The nice thing about this product is that a one-time purchase can be used over and over for several different objects.  I highly recommend using the ShoulderDolly not only for gun safes, but for all your furniture or appliance moving needs.

Shoulder Dolly

Q: Can a safe be mounted to the floor?

 A:  Most of the time, yes!  In fact most manufacturers pre-drill the mounting holes and recommend that you bolt the safe into the floor.  Sometimes the mounting hardware is included as well.  If not, the bolts can be picked up at your local hardware store.  Even if you are mounting the safe in the garage or basement and you have a concrete floor there are lag bolts that you can use.  The advantage to mounting your safe is that it won’t tip over and it adds another level of security by making it harder for someone to break-in.  The best way to pry into a safe is by tipping it on its side, so eliminating that method of entry is ideal.

Q: What do I need to know about the delivery before ordering a safe?

A:  First of all, you’ll want to take good measurements of all the doors that the safe will be going through.  Compare those measurements to the dimensions of the safe.  The most important specification of the safe is probably the depth because a safe can be tipped on it’s side which makes the depth the widest measurement when going through a door.  You also want to check if the specification given includes the handle and hinge.  Most of the time the safe is shipped with the handle inside the safe to keep it from getting damaged, but you’ll still want to account for the hinge that protrudes from the safe body.

You’ll also want to plan the best route for the safe to go through your home to its final destination.  Is it easier to go through the front door, around the back, or through the garage?  Make sure to mention at the time of the order if you have a steep or gravel driveway, a section of grass to roll over, a fence, or any other obstacles.  This way the delivery company will make sure to bring the appropriate equipment the first time.  It’s also a good idea to think of a possible “backup plan” in case they’re not able to get the safe where you wish.  If the safe won’t fit or is too hard to maneuver into the location you choose, give them a secondary location to put the safe.

Q: I live in a rural area or have a long or unusual driveway.  What are my options?

A:  These deliveries are determined on a case-by-case basis depending on several factors.  It would be best to contact a gun safe account rep to talk to them about your particular situation before ordering the safe.  They can determine the best way to get the safe delivered.  If it’s not suitable for a truck to drive down your driveway, you may need to pick it up at the end of the driveway or at a delivery terminal in your city.  You can reach a GunSafes.com rep to talk about the different options at 800-540-1695 ext 401.

Gun Safe Buyers Guide, Part 2 : FIRE RATINGS

By Gun-Safe-Guru, onAugust 16th, 2010

More Q&A with the Gun-Safe-Guru.  This part of the gun safe buyers guide will focus specifically on the fire ratings for gun safes.

Q: Can you explain a gun safe fire rating?

A:  The fire rating is the amount of time a safe can endure a certain temperature while keeping the internal temperature below 350 degrees.  Paper begins to char at a temperature of just 400° F.  For this reason, most manufacturers choose 350° as the maximum internal temperature the contents of a safe can reach for the period of time that they specify for each safe.  During testing, safes are heated to a given temperature, usually between 1200° F – 1400° F, for up to four hours then cooled naturally. In order to pass the fire test, the safe’s contents must at no time during the test go above 350° F. This ensures that important paper documents will not be destroyed by the intense heat of a fire.  Some home and office safes are made specifically to hold media (cd’s, data drives, etc) and so their internal temperature must remain below 125° F because media tends to melt at a much lower temperature.  If you’re planning on storing any kind of media in your gun safe, we recommend putting a separate media safe inside your gun safe. 

Q: What amount of fire protection do I need?

A:  There are many factors that you should consider when choosing a fire rated safe.  Most safes fire ratings start at 30 minutes and as more fire insulation is added, the amount of time a safe can withstand a certain temperature is increased.  Consumer gun safe fire ratings top out at about 2.5 hours.  When deciding how much fire protection you need, ask yourself a few of these common questions:  

  • How far away is my home from a fire department?
  • Am I putting this safe inside the home or in a basement?
  • Do I have a lot of trees, brush, and other natural fuels near my home?
  • Am I in an area of high fire danger?
  • Can insurance replace the items that are in my safe or are they irreplaceable? 

There are many sources of information for this subject on the Internet, but most of what I’ve found points out that the average house fire burns for 27 minutes at 1100° F.   If your particular situation puts you in a better or worse scenario than the “average”, you’re going to want to pick a fire rating based on that information. 

Q: Why do safe manufacturers perform different fire tests?

A:  Unlike the fuel standards we have at gas stations or the electric ratings we have on appliances, there is no governing body when it comes to fire ratings on safes.  Because of this, many safe manufacturers can make bogus claims, but if you ask the tough questions and do your research you can usually sniff out a phony safe.  Some good questions to ask when researching a fire safe:

  • What is being used as the fire insulation?  Fireboard or composite material?
  • How many layers of fire insulation and on how many sides?
  • What is the warranty and does it cover fire damage?
  • Does the safe manufacturer have any BBB complaints? 

Q: What is a Palusol door seal?

A:  A Palusol door seal is a brand of intumescent door seal that is used to prevent smoke and heat from getting inside the safe.  Some manufacturers use Palusol, others use a generic brand, but they all work using the same concept.  When the seal is heated up from a nearby fire, the intumescent seal expands and seals the safe door shut.  This can also keep some water out, but it doesn’t make the safe waterproof. 

Gun Safe Buyers Guide, Part 1 : LOCKS

By Gun-Safe-Guru, onJuly 29th, 2010

Time for a little Q & A with the Gun-Safe-Guru.  We’ll break up this gun safe buyers guide into several parts.  Feel free to post questions at the bottom of this article or email me:  josh(at)gunsafesblogger.com

Q: Should I choose an electronic lock or combination dial lock?

A:  This is a personal preference, but I will list the pros and cons for both the electronic lock and the manual dial lock.  Most safe companies offer a choice of a dial or e-lock, but a few manufacturers like Winchester and Mesa only offer the safe with an electronic lock.  As far as security is concerned, often times both the electronic lock and combination lock carry the same Group II or Group I security rating.

Pros for the electronic lock:  Quick and easy access.  Change the combination at any time.  Easier to see under dim light. Door automatically locks when it is closed

Cons:  Possibility of electronic failure (although very rare).  Having to change the batteries (at least once a year).  Shorter life span (typically 10-15 years)

Pros for the combination lock:  No electronic parts, no batteries to replace.  More durable & longer lasting

Cons:  Turning the dial back and forth can be time consuming, especially if don’t land exactly on the right numbers.  Harder to see the numbers under dim light.  Door doesn’t automatically lock when closed, you need to spin the dial.  Be sure to spin the dial every time you close your safe door!

One thing to keep in mind about the e-lock:  Be sure to change your combination every once in a while otherwise the keypad will wear down, showing the numbers that you use most.

Q: If I buy a safe with an electronic lock and the battery dies, how do I get into the safe?

A:  You don’t need to get into the safe to change the battery.  Simply replace the battery located inside the keypad and your safe will be ready to open.  Most electronic locks feature a low battery alert that will notify you that the battery needs to be changed so you can avoid this problem all together. 

Q:  Can I determine the combination on a manual dial lock?

A:  The combination dial locks come with a predetermined code from the factory.  In some instances the combination can be changed, but that will need to be done by a certified locksmith.  This can be one advantage to choosing an electronic lock.

Q:  Can you explain the “lockout” feature on electronic locks?

A:   Most quality electronic locks have an automatic lock-out feature.  This feature disables the lock for a period of time (usually 15 to 20 minutes) if someone enters three or four incorrect combinations consecutively.  This safeguard keeps thiefs from trying several different combinations in a short period of time.

Q:  Do any of these full size gun safes have a key backup?

A:  Surprisingly enough, most full size gun safes do NOT have a key backup.  There are a few exceptions.  Rather than list them all here, just give me a call at 800-540-1695 ext 208 or email me:   josh (at) gunsafesblogger.com